The Fabrics Behind Ajrakh: Modal Silk, Tussar & Kota Explained

The Fabrics Behind Ajrakh: Modal Silk, Tussar & Kota Explained

What Makes Ajrakh So Special?

Ajrakh is one of India's most ancient and revered textile traditions — a meticulous craft of hand-dyeing and hand block printing that has been passed down through generations. But beyond the stunning geometric patterns and rich indigo hues, what truly sets Ajrakh apart is the quality of the fabrics it is crafted on. The choice of fabric determines how the dye absorbs, how the print sits, and ultimately how the garment feels against your skin.

At JasmineBySeba, we work with three exceptional fabrics — Modal Silk, Tussar Silk, and Kota Silk — each bringing its own unique character to Ajrakh. Here's everything you need to know.

Proudly Made in India — Where Every Thread Tells a Story

India has one of the richest textile heritages in the world, and Ajrakh is one of its crown jewels. Every piece of Ajrakh fabric is a product of Indian hands, Indian soil, and Indian tradition. The artisans who create these textiles have inherited their skills across generations — from the weavers who craft the base fabric on handlooms, to the block printers who carve intricate patterns into wood and stamp them by hand, to the embroiderers who add the final flourishes of cut bead handwork.

When you choose a Made in India Ajrakh garment, you are not just buying clothing — you are supporting a living craft ecosystem. You are sustaining the livelihoods of weavers in Bhagalpur, block printers in Kutch, and artisans across India who pour their skill, patience, and artistry into every single piece. Each garment can take days or even weeks to complete, and no two pieces are ever exactly alike.

This is the beauty of handcrafted Indian textiles — they carry the warmth of human hands, the imperfections that make them perfect, and a story that no machine can replicate.

Modal Silk — Soft, Fluid & Everyday Luxurious

Modal silk is a semi-cotton fabric made from beech tree pulp, blended with silk to create a fabric that is incredibly soft, lightweight, and breathable. It drapes beautifully and has a subtle sheen that makes it look luxurious without being heavy.

For Ajrakh, modal silk is an ideal canvas. Its smooth surface allows the hand block print to sit crisp and clear, and the natural fibres absorb the plant-based dyes used in Ajrakh printing with remarkable depth and richness. The result is vibrant, long-lasting colour that only gets better with age.

Best for: Everyday wear, coord sets, sharara sets, and casual occasions where you want comfort without compromising on style.

Tussar Silk — Raw, Textured & Timelessly Elegant

Tussar handloom silk (also known as Kosa silk) is a wild silk produced by silkworms that feed on forest trees like Arjun and Saja. Unlike cultivated silk, Tussar has a natural, slightly coarse texture and a warm golden tone that gives it an earthy, organic character.

When Ajrakh block printing meets Tussar silk, the result is extraordinary. The texture of the fabric adds depth to the print, and the natural golden base of Tussar creates a beautiful contrast with the deep indigo, rust, and black tones typical of Ajrakh. Tussar Ajrakh sarees, in particular, are heirloom-worthy pieces that carry the soul of two great Indian craft traditions.

Best for: Sarees, festive wear, and occasions where you want to make a statement with understated elegance.

Kota Silk — Lightweight, Breezy & Effortlessly Graceful

Kota silk originates from Kota, Rajasthan — the same region where Ajrakh has flourished for centuries. It is a fine, open-weave fabric with a distinctive square-check texture (called khat) woven into it. Kota silk is known for being exceptionally lightweight and airy, making it one of the most comfortable fabrics to wear in India's warm climate.

The open weave of Kota silk gives Ajrakh prints a delicate, almost translucent quality. The fabric's natural crispness holds the block print beautifully while remaining feather-light to wear. Kota Ajrakh jacket sets and sarees are perfect for those who love the craft but want something that feels effortless all day long.

Best for: Jacket sets, sarees, and warm-weather dressing where breathability is key.

The Art of Handcrafting — Slow Fashion at Its Finest

In a world of fast fashion and mass production, Ajrakh stands as a powerful reminder of what clothing can truly be. Every step of the process — from washing and treating the fabric, to resist printing with natural pastes, to dyeing in multiple rounds, to hand embroidering the finishing details — is done entirely by hand.

The artisans use hand-carved wooden blocks, some of which are family heirlooms passed down through generations. A single saree can require dozens of precise block impressions, each placed by eye and by feel. The dyes used are often natural — indigo, madder, pomegranate rind — and the process of achieving the signature Ajrakh colours can involve up to 16 stages of dyeing and washing.

This is slow fashion in its truest sense. It cannot be rushed. It cannot be replicated by a machine. And that is exactly what makes it so precious.

How to Choose the Right Fabric for You

Each of these fabrics brings something different to the Ajrakh experience. If you're new to Ajrakh and want something versatile for daily wear, start with Modal Silk. If you're looking for a special occasion piece with depth and character, Tussar Silk is your answer. And if you live in a warm climate and want something you can wear all day in comfort, Kota Silk is the perfect choice.

At JasmineBySeba, every piece is handcrafted with intention — from the fabric selection to the final embroidery. When you wear Ajrakh, you're not just wearing a garment; you're wearing centuries of craft, culture, and care.

Explore Our Ajrakh Collection

Browse our latest collection of Ajrakh sarees, coord sets, sharara sets, and more — each piece handcrafted on Modal Silk, Tussar Silk, or Kota Silk, and finished with intricate hand embroidery and cut bead handwork.